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Pacific Storm and Surf Forecast
Updated: Tuesday, February 13, 2024 2:57 PM
Buoys: Northern CA - Southern CA - Hawaii - Gulf of Alaska - Pacific Northwest
Buoy Forecast:
Northern CA - Southern CA - Hawaii - Gulf of Alaska - Pacific Northwest
Pacific Links:  Atmospheric Models - Buoy Data - Current Weather - Wave Models
Forecast Archives: Enter Here
A chronology of recent Mavericks Underground forecasts. Once you enter, just click on the HTML file forecast you want to review (e.g. 073199.html equals July 31, 1999). To view the maps that correspond to that forecast date, select the html file labeled 073199 maps.html
4.1 - California & 4.5 - Hawaii
Using the 'Winter' Scale
(See Swell Category Table link at bottom of page)

Probability for presence of largest swells in near-shore waters of NCal, SCal or Hawaii.    
Issued for Week of Monday 2/12 thru Sun 2/18
Swell Potential Rating Categories
5 = Good probability for 3 or more days of Significant swell
4 = Good probability for 1-2 days of Significant swell
3 = Good probability for 3 or more days of Intermediate/Advanced swell
2 = Good probability for  1-2 days of
Intermediate/Advanced swell
1 = Good probability for 3 or more days of Impulse or Windswell
0 = Low probability for 1-2 days of Impulse or Windswell   

Final MJO Fueled Storm Cycle Setting Up
3 Gales Forecast Along with More Rain/Snow for CA

BUOY ROUNDUP
Tuesday, February 13, 2024 :

  • Buoy 238 (Barbers Pt): Seas were 2.3 ft @ 11.1 secs with swell 0.9 ft @ 14.8 secs from 208 degrees. Water temp 76.3 (Barbers Pt), 76.1 (Pearl Harbor 233), NA (Lani 239).
  • Buoy 187 (Pauwela): Seas were 3.7 ft @ 9.9 secs with swell 2.8 ft @ 9.9 secs from 127 degrees. Water temp 75.7 degs
  • Buoy 106 (Waimea)/Buoy 202 (Hanalei): Seas were 3.4 ft @ 11.1 secs with swell 2.4 ft @ 10.1 secs from 323 degrees. Water temp 75.9 degs
  • Buoy 46025 (Catalina RDG): Seas were 2.5 ft @ 12.8 secs with swell 1.5 ft @ 13.6 secs from 272 degrees. Wind north at 6-8 kts. Water temperature 58.5 degs, 57.2 (Harvest 071), 58.6 (Topanga 103), 58.5 (Long Beach 215), 59.0 (Oceanside Offshore 045), 58.3 (Del Mar 153), 59.2 (Torrey Pines Outer 100). At Harvest Buoy (071) primary swell was 4.0 ft @ 13.0 secs from 288 degrees. At E. Santa Barbara (46053) swell was 2.7 ft @ 12.8 secs from 276 degrees. At Santa Monica (028) swell was 1.9 ft @ 14.2 secs from 265 degrees. At Oceanside (045) swell was 1.4 ft @ 11.6 secs from 258 degrees. Southward at Pt Loma (191) swell was 3.3 ft @ 13.4 secs from 275 degrees. Water temperature was 59.0 degrees (Imperial Beach).
  • Buoy 029 (Pt Reyes): Seas were 5.0 ft @ 9.9 secs with swell 3.6 ft @ 12.9 secs from 288 degrees. Wind north at 0-2 kts (46013) and NW 6-7 kts (1801589). Water temp NA (Bodega Bay 46013), 55.8 degs (Pt Reyes 029), 55.8 (San Francisco 46026), 55.9 (SF Bar 142), 55.6 (1801589) and 58.6 (Monterey Bay 46042).

See Hi-Res Buoy Dashboards (bottom of the page)

Swell Classification Guidelines

Significant: Winter - Swell 8 ft @ 14 secs or greater (11+ ft faces) for 8+ hours (greater than double overhead).
Summer
- Head high or better.
Advanced: Winter - Swell and period combination capable of generating faces 1.5 times overhead to double overhead (7-10 ft)
Summer - Chest to head high.
Intermediate/Utility Class: Winter - Swell and period combination generating faces at head high to 1.5 times overhead (4-7 ft).
Summer
- Waist to chest high.
Impulse/Windswell: Winter - Swell and period combination generating faces up to head high (1-4 ft) or anything with a period less than 11 secs.
Summer
- up to waist high swell. Also called 'Background' swell.

Surf Heights for Hawaii should be consider 'Hawaiian Scale' if period exceeds 14 secs.

PACIFIC OVERVIEW
Current Conditions
On Tuesday (2/13) in North and Central CA waves were head high and lined up with semi-decent form and clean with no wind early. Protected breaks were waist to maybe chest high and lined up head high and lined up but pretty soft with clean conditions. At Santa Cruz surf was head high and lined up with good form and clean though a little soft. In Southern California/Ventura waves were waist to chest high on the sets and lined up with decent form and real clean with no wind. Central Orange County had waves at waist to chest high and lined up and clean but mushed with a little south warble running through it. South Orange County's best summertime breaks had waves at thigh high and very soft and barely rideable but clean. North San Diego had waves at waist to near chest high and reasonably lined up with decent form and soft but clean. Oahu's North Shore had waves in the chest to shoulder high range and lined up with good form and clean conditions. The South Shore had waves at thigh to waist high and real clean and weakly lined up with decent form and very soft. The East Shore was flat and clean with no wind.

See QuikCASTs for the 5 day surf overview or read below for the detailed view.

Meteorological Overview
On Tuesday (2/13) California was getting fading remnant swell from a gale that lifted northeast through the Western Gulf Wed-Fri (2/9) with 36-39 ft seas aimed east. A broader and stronger gale was developing on the dateline Tues (2/13) and forecast falling southeast to a point just north of Hawaii on Wed (2/14) with seas to barely 43 ft targeting Hawaii then tracking east into the GUlf with seas fading from 36 ft on Thurs (2/15) targeting the US West Coast well. Another gael is to develop north of Hawaii on Sat (2/17) with 26 ft seas tracking east with 33 ft seas well off Pt Conception on Sun-Mon (2/19) offering swell for Southern CA. And another is forecast building over the North Dateline region Fri-Sat (2/17) with 43 ft seas over a small area aimed east. More swell is possible.

See all the details below...

 

SHORT- TERM FORECAST
Current marine weather and wave analysis plus forecast conditions for the next 72 hours

North Pacific

Overview
Jetstream
On Tuesday (2/13) the jet was a bit split over Japan to the dateline then consolidated from the dateline to Baja with winds up to 190 kts mainly between the dateline and a point north of Hawaii forming a trough there supportive of gale development. Also a broad gentle trough was in the jet off Southern CA supportive of gale development. Over the next 72 hours the Hawaiian trough is to ease east with winds in the jet falling to 170 kts but still holding together while pushing well into the Gulf through Fri (2/16) offering support for gale development. The trough off Southern CA is to push east moving inland over Baja on Fri (2/16) likely not supportive of gale development. Beyond 72 hours the Hawaiian trough is to continues east holding together well while moving up to and into California on Tues (2/20) supportive still of gale development. Another small trough is forecast developing over the North Dateline region on Mon-Tues (2/20) pushing east to the Western Gulf being fed by on Tues at trough is to dissipate on Wed (2/14) but a new trough is forecast developing just west of the dateline being fed by 140 kts winds weakly supportive of gale development. But the weak split in the jet currently off Japan is build to the east and by Tues (2/20) the jet is to be mostly split over the width of the North Pacific signaling the end of our favorable environment for gale formation.

Surface Analysis
On Tuesday (2/13) swell from a gale previously in the Western Gulf was fading in California (see West Gulf Gale below).

Over the next 72 hours a storms is to build while tracking east and north of the Hawaiian Islands (see Hawaiian Storm below).

 

West Gulf Gale
A gale started developing Wed AM (2/7) on the dateline producing west winds at 45 kts and seas 26 ft over a small area at 33.75N 178.75E aimed east. In the evening the gale was lifting northeast producing west and northwest winds at 45-50 kts with seas building from 29 ft at 38N 172.5W aimed east. On Thurs AM (2/8) the gale was lifting northeast over the Northwestern Gulf with west winds 50 kts and seas 35 ft at 43N 165.25W aimed east. The gale faded some in the evening in the Northwestern Gulf with 40 kt west winds and seas 36 ft at 46N 158.5W aimed east. On Fri AM (2/9) west winds were 35-40 kts over the Northern Gulf with seas 31 ft at 50.25N 152.5W aimed east. In the evening the gale was fading out in the Northern Gulf with west winds 30 kts and seas fading from 27 ft at 54.25N 153.75W aimed east.

North CA: Residuals on Tues (2/13) fading from 3.8 ft @ 12 secs (4.5 ft). Swell Direction: 295 degrees

Southern CA: Swell fading Tues (2/13) from 1.6 ft @ 13 secs early (2.0 ft). Swell Direction: 300 degrees

 

Hawaiian Storm
On Mon AM (2/12) a small storm started building between North Japan and the dateline with 50 kt west winds over a tiny area and seas to 27 ft over a small area at 40.75N 166.25E aimed east. In the evening winds eased east at 45-50 kts from the west approaching the dateline with seas 33 ft at 40.75N 170.75E aimed east. On Tues AM (2/13) fetch was starting to build in coverage while the system falls southeast approaching the dateline with northwest winds 40-45 kts and seas building from 29 ft at 37.25N 172E aimed southeast. In the evening the gale is to be well organized over the dateline with northwest and west winds 45 kts and seas building from 34 ft over a decent sized area at 34.5N 179.25E aimed east and southeast. On Wed AM (2/14) the storm is to be easing east with 45-55 kt northwest winds and seas 41 ft at 35.75N 171.25W and 30+ ft seas over a solid area. The storm is to track east in the evening 750 nmiles northwest of Oahu at gale status with 40-45 kts northwest winds and seas 41 ft at 33N 165.5W aimed east and southeast. On Thurs AM (2/15) the gale is to be 600 nmiles north of the Islands with northwest winds 35-40 kts and seas 36 ft at 34N 156.5W aimed east. In the evening the gale is to track east in the Central Gulf with 30-35 kt west winds and seas 31 ft at 36.5N 148.25W aimed east and southeast. On Fri AM (2/16) the gale is to be fading in the Eastern Gulf with northwest winds 30 kts and seas 28 ft at 38.5N 143W aimed east. Possible solid and somewhat raw swell to reach the Hawaiian Islands and radiating east from there. Something to monitor.

Oahu: For planning purposes expected swell arrival on Thurs (2/15) building to 13.5 ft @ 18 secs (24 ft) later in the day. Swell fading on Fri (2/16) from 11.2 ft @ 15-16 secs early (17 ft). Residuals on Sat (2/17) fading from 6.4 ft @ 12 secs (7.5 ft). Swell Direction 325 moving to 350 degrees Wind to be strong north to North-Northeast the whole time.

 

North Pacific Animations: Jetstream - Surface Pressure/Wind - Sea Height - Surf Height

 

Tropical Update
No tropical systems of interest were being tracked.

California Nearshore Forecast
(North CA is defined as the area north of the Golden Gate - Central CA from Pt Conception to the Golden Gate, and Southern CA everywhere south of Pt Conception).

  • Wed AM (2/14) a weak front impacts North CA with south winds 15-20 kts for Cape Mendocino and south winds 5 kts to the Golden Gate and northwest winds 5 kts for Central CA early. In the afternoon the front pushes south with southwest winds 15-20 kts for Cape Mendocino and south winds 10-15 kts down to Monterey Bay and south winds 5-10 kts down to Pt Conception. Rain building for Cape Mendocino through the day falling south to Monterey Bay late afternoon and Morro Bay in the evening. Heavy snow building for Tahoe in the evening
  • Thurs AM (2/15) southwest winds are to be 10 kts for North CA and northwest 5-10 kts for Central CA. In the afternoon another front builds off the coast with south winds 5 kts for North CA and northwest winds 1-5 kts for Central CA. Rain fading for North and Central CA early. Snow fading for the North and Central Sierra early
  • Fri AM (2/16) the front approaches with south winds 10 kts for North CA and calm winds early for Central CA. In the afternoon south winds build for North CA at 15-20 kts and southeast 5-10 kts for Central CA. Light rain for Cape Mendocino in the evening.
  • Sat AM (2/17) the front starts to impact North CA with south winds 20-30 kts and south winds 15-25 kts for Central CA. In the afternoon the front is to be pushing inland over North CA with southwest winds 20 kts for North CA and south winds 25-30 kts for Central CA. South winds 5-10 kts for Southern CA. Rain developing for North CA early getting heavy while pushing south to Pt Conception in the afternoon down to and LA County in the evening. Snow developing for the Sierra in the evening.
  • Sun AM (2/18) another low is to be building off Pt Conception with south winds 10 kts for North and Central CA early and south winds 5-10 kts for Southern CA. In the afternoon the front is to start impacting Central CA with southeast winds 10-15 kts for North Ca and south winds 20-25 kts for Central CA and south winds 10-15 kts for Southern CA. Rain for all of North, Central and Southern CA early but clear by 10 AM. Snow clearing mid-AM for the Sierra. A new bout of rain starts for all of Central CA in the evening.
  • Mon AM (2/19) then front is to be pushing onshore over all of California with south to southeast winds 20 kts for North CA and south winds 20-25 kts for Central CA and south winds 20 kts for Southern CA. More of the same in the afternoon with southeast winds 15-20 kts for North CA and south winds 30 kts for all of Central CA and south winds 20+ kts for Southern CA. Heavy rain for Central CA up to Pt Arena early continuing but lighter in the afternoon while building south over all of Southern CA in the afternoon and up to Cape Mendocino. Snow building early for the Sierra continuing through the day and evening.
  • Tues AM (2/20) the low is to still be offshore of Central CA with southeast winds 25 kts for North CA and south winds 20-25 kts for Central CA and south winds 10 kts for Southern CA. Rain fro all of the state early holding all day. Heavy snow early for the Sierra fading some through the day.

Total snow accumulation for the next 10 days respectively for Squaw Valley, Sugar Bowl, Kirkwood and Mammoth are projected at 52, 62, 54, and 39 inches respectively starting on Wed (2/14) accumulating steady through Tues (2/20).

Freeze Level for Tahoe Ski Resorts: Freeze Level 5,500 ft today through Thurs (2/15) rising to 8,000 ft on 2/16-2/17 falling some to 7,000 ft 2/18-2/19 then down to 5,500 ft beyond.

- - -

Tioga Pass/Pacific Crest Trail intersection forecast: Temps - Freeze Level
More locations here (scroll down to 'Resort Snow Forecasts>Central CA or North CA Caltrans & Backcountry')

Snow Models: http://www.stormsurf.com/mdls/menu_snow.html (Scroll down for Resort specific forecasts).

 

South Pacific

Overview
Surface Analysis
No swell of interest coming from the Southern Hemisphere was hitting Hawaii or California. Summer is over.

Over the next 72 hours no swell producing weather systems of interest are forecast.

 

South Pacific Animations: Jetstream - Surface Pressure/Wind - Sea Height - Surf Height

 

QuikCAST's

 

LONG-TERM FORECAST
Marine weather and forecast conditions 3-10 days into the future

North Pacific

Beyond 72 hours starting Fri PM (2/16) a gale is to start building 900 nmiles north of Hawaii with 35 kt northwest winds and seas building to 23 ft at 37N 160W aimed southeast. Fetch to continue falling southeast on Sat Am (2/17) with 40 kt north winds and seas 26 ft at 33N 154W aimed southeast. In the evening fetch to continue falling southeast at 40 kts with seas 28 ft at 29.5N 147W aimed southeast pretty much targeting neither Hawaii or California. On Sun AM (2/18) the gale is to start building well off Southern CA with 40-45 ks northwest winds and seas 31 ft at 31.75N 140.5W aimed southeast somewhat at Southern CA but more at Baja. In the evening the gael is to holds with 35-40 kts northwest winds and seas 34 ft at 30N 136W off North Baja. On Mon AM the gael is to be just off Pt Conception producing northwest winds at 35-40 kts and seas 31 ft at 28.5N 129.75W or 750 nmiles west of North Baja. The gael to dissipate in the evening. Possible swell for Southern CA and Baja. Something to monitor.

Starting Fri AM (2/18) a gale is to start building west of the dateline while lifting northeast with 45 kt west winds and seas building from 25 ft at 44.5N 165E aimed east. In the evening the storm is to be approaching the North Dateline region with 50 kt west winds and seas 40 ft at 49N 172.5E aimed east. On Sat AM (2/17) the gale is to be lifting over the Central Aleutians with 45 kt west winds and seas 41 ft at 51N 179.75W aimed east. In the evening the gael is to be in the Bering Sea with residual west winds of 35-40 kts south of the Aleutians with seas there fading from 29 ft at 51.5N 175.25W aimed east. The gael to dissipate from there. Something to monitor.

 

South Pacific

Beyond 72 hours no swell producing weather systems of interest are forecast.

 

MJO/ENSO Forecast

 

El Nino Collapsing in the Ocean
NINO3.4 SST Anomalies Still Reflect a Strong El Nino - But the End is Near
8 Kelvin Waves traversed the Pacific from Dec '22 through Nov 2023 erupting off Ecuador. The warm pool created by them is now dissipating fast off Ecuador. But the atmosphere is still deep in El Nino and will continue from previous momentum. Cold water is getting poised to start erupting off Ecuador in a few weeks which will hasten the demise of El Nino.

MJO/ENSO Discussion
The Madden Julian Oscillation (MJO) is a periodic weather cycle that tracks east along the equator circumnavigating the globe. It is characterized in it's Inactive Phase by enhanced trade winds and dry weather over the part of the equator it is in control of, and in it's Active Phase by slackening if not an outright reversing trade winds while enhancing precipitation. The oscillation occurs in roughly 20-30 day cycles (Inactive for 20-30 days, then Active for 20-30 days) over any single location on the planet, though most noticeable in the Pacific. During the Active Phase in the Pacific the MJO tends to support the formation of stronger and longer lasting gales resulting in enhanced potential for the formation of swell producing storms. Prolonged and consecutive Active MJO Phases in the Pacific help support the formation of El Nino. During the Inactive Phase the jet stream tends to split resulting in high pressure and less potential for swell producing storm development. Wind anomalies in the Kelvin Wave Generation Area (KWGA) are key for understanding what Phase the MJO is in over the Pacific. The KWGA is located on the equator from 135E-170W and 5 degs north and south (or on the equator from New Guinea east to the dateline). West wind anomalies in the KWGA suggest the Active Phase of the MJO in the Pacific, and east anomalies suggests the Inactive Phase. In turn the Active Phase strengthens and the Inactive Phase weakens the jetstream, which in turn enhances or dampens storm production respectively in the Pacific.And the El Nino/La Nino cycle (collectively know as ENSO - El Nino Southern Oscillation) is a less frequent (about once every 7 years) but more impactful cycle that affects world wide weather. Specifically, strong El Nino events promote storm production in the Pacific while La Nina events suppress storm production. These therefore have a significant impact on the production of swell and surf. The paragraphs below analyze the state of the MJO and ENSO in the Pacific and provide forecasts for upcoming activity (or inactivity depending on the state and interaction of these two oscillations).

Overview: In 2019 warm equatorial waters were fading, and by August a tongue of cool water was tracking west on the equator from Ecuador over the Galapagos reaching to a point nearly south of Hawaii. A bit of a recovery tried to occur during Fall of 2019, with weak warm water building in the Nino 1.2 region, but cool water held in a pool off Peru. By April 2020 a cool pool was starting to build, forming a well defined cool tongue that evolved into La Nina, with it fully developing through July 2020. That pattern continued until late Fall 2022 when trades started fading and by early 2023 multiple Kelvin Waves were in flight with significant warming developing over the East Equatorial Pacific. La Nina was dead on 3/18/2023 with El Nino apparently developing. But it was not coupled with the atmosphere as of 7/20/2023.

LONG-RANGE PACIFIC STORM AND SWELL GENERATION POTENTIAL FORECAST
Winter 2023 = 7.7 (California & Hawaii)
Rating based on a 1-10 scale: 1 being the lowest (small and infrequent surf conditions), 5 being normal/average, and 10 being extraordinary (frequent events of large, long period swells)

Rationale: A 3 year La Nina started fading in Jan 2023 and was gone by April. 6 Active MJO's produced 6 Kelvin Waves over early to mid 2023 with Kelvin Wave #7 in August building over the West Pacific and the 4th, 5th and 6th backed up off Ecuador now (10/20/23). The CFS model is predicting steady west anomalies from here forward and the leading edge of the low pressure bias moving over California now filling the Pacific. We are now under an El Nino status. We are moving into a period of enhanced storm production (starting late Sept 2023) and beyond, getting intense come late Fall and early Winter. This should result in an above normal level of swells, with swells being longer than normal duration from here forward as El Nino gets a stronger footprint on the atmosphere. The net result is a well above normal number of swells with above normal size and duration (i.e 15 significant class swells perhaps). Last year there were 0 and year before 5 or less.

KWGA/Equatorial Surface Wind Analysis (KWGA - Kelvin Wave Generation Area - The area 5 degrees north and south of the equator from 170W to 135E)
Analysis (TAO Buoys): As of (2/12) 5 day average winds were moderate from the east over the East equatorial Pacific and strong east over the Central Pacific and strong eat over the KWGA. Anomalies were modest east over East equatorial Pacific and neutral over the Central Pacific and neutral over the KWGA. (Note: These are 5 day average winds, versus realtime, so they lag what is happening today (by about 2.5 days).
2 Week Forecast (GFS Model): (2/13) West anomalies are moderate over the KWGA today. The forecast indicates moderate to strong west anomalies holding over the KWGA through the end of the model run on 2/29 but with east anomalies trying to encroach on the far West KWGA to 145E the first weak of the model run then collapsing and retrograding west of the KWGA beyond. .

Kelvin Wave Generation Area wind monitoring model: West and East

MJO/WWB/Wind Projections:  
OLR Models: (2/12) The Active Phase of the MJO (wet air/cloudy skies) was covering the KWGA. The statistic model indicates the Active MJO (wet air/cloudy sky's) is to push slowly east still filling the KWGA through day 5 of the model run but with a moderate Inactive Phase (dry air/clear sky's) moving from the Maritime Continent into the West KWGA on day 10 then filling it on day 15. The dynamic model depicts the Active MJO holding stationary over the KWGA and maintaining strength at moderate to strong status through day 4 of the model run then weakening to weak status on day 10 with a neutral MJO pattern on day 15.
Phase Diagrams - 2 week forecast (CA and GEFS): (2/13) The statistical model depicts the Active signal was modest over the East Pacific today. The forecast indicates it is to push east at weak status moving over East Africa 15 days out. The dynamic model indicates the Active Phase is to meander over the East Pacific for the next week then moving to the Central Indian Ocean at weak status 15 days out.
40 day Upper Level Model (assumed to be a statistical mode and 1 week ahead of what is occurring at the surface): (2/13) A strong Active MJO pattern (wet air) was indicated filling the KWGA today. The forecast has the Active Phase (wet air) holding over the KWGA through 2/18 before moving east. The Inactive Phase (dry air) is to follow over the KWGA 2/23 through 3/9. Then a weak Active Phase is to push into the KWGA 3/14 through the end of the model run on 3/24.
4 Week CFS Model (850 mb wind): (2/12)
Today the Active Phase of the MJO was gone over the KWGA but west anomalies were moderate to strong focused just west of the dateline. The forecast indicates west anomalies are to hold strong through 2/16 then moderate just west of the dateline through 3/3 weakening and starting to track east and east of the dateline on the last day of the model run on 3/11.
3 Month CFS Model (850 mb wind): (2/13) - using the 5th ensemble member - the mean of the 4 individual members which are all from the 00Z run - 1 run per day):
Today the Active Phase of the MJO was fading but still filling the entirety of the KWGA with west anomalies blowing at moderate strength. The Active Phase is to fade some but still filling the KWGA with west anomalies in control through 2/19 , then holding weakly through 3/16 with weak west anomalies holding. A solid Inactive Phase moved into the far West KWGA 2/6 but is to stall there not making any real push east until 3/5 then controlling the KWGA through 4/5 with weak east anomalies taking control 3/11 into 4/8. The Active Phase is to weakly follow through the end of the model run on 5/12 with weak west anomalies in control. The low pass filter indicates a broad low pressure bias is established over the KWGA centered at 165W with a third contour line fading on 3/29 and the second contour line fading 4/28. The high pressure bias was over the Maritime Continent 10/2-1/21 but faded but forecast to return weakly today through 3/22. It appears a strong El Nino is still in control and is to move east over the next 3 months while dissipating.

CFSv2 3 month forecast for 850 mb winds, MJO, Rossby etc - Alternate link

Subsurface Waters Temps
TAO Array: (2/13) Today in the far West Pacific the leading edge of the 30 deg isotherm was retrograding from 180W to 170E. The 29 degree isotherm was retrograding to 172W from 168W. The 28 deg isotherm line had raced east at 112W but today was retrograding to 148W from 143W. The 24 degree isotherm extended the whole way across the Pacific and was getting shallower in the east at 28m deep (previously 32m). Anomaly wise, warm anomalies at +2 deg C are moving east fast under the East Pacific starting at 133W (previously 135W). +3 deg anomalies start at 119W (previously 126W, 143W and 172W) and are shrinking in coverage while getting squeezed to the surface by cold water underneath. The warm pool in the east is discharging fast to the surface with no backfilling occurring. There's about 2 weeks of warm water left. Colder water extends east now under the entire Pacific to Ecuador undercutting the warm pool preventing the formation of any new Kelvin Waves. The hi-res GODAS animation posted 2/7 indicates a variation on that theme with +1-2 degs anomalies start at 165E and over a large section of the subsurface equatorial Pacific but only reaching down to 100 meters. This is likely just surface warming pushing east driven by trades. 3 deg anomalies from Kevin Wave #7/#8 start at 110W (previously 135W) in pockets likely erupting to the surface and covering east into Ecuador. Cool water was building deep in the far West Pacific down 150m reaching east to 100W while lifting up to 35 meters. The end is near for El Nino. The GODAS animation is 1 week behind the TAO data but also is more detailed and accurately depicted since its satellite based.
Sea Level Anomalies: (2/7) Sea heights were positive limited to the East Equatorial Pacific starting at 140W at +0-5 cms extending east into Ecuador but fading to neutral directly on the equator easing east to 100W. +5 cm anomalies existed within that area limited to a few pockets. It appears the warm pool is discharge quickly to the east. Per the Upper Ocean Heat Anomaly Histogram (2/7) warm water is racing east with +0.5 degs anomalies starting at 95W (previously 130W) to Ecuador with +1.0 deg anomalies limited to 89W (previously 148W) to Ecuador and moving east. Cool water was moving east reaching to 134W. El Nino is collapsing with cooler water developing over the West Pacific and now moving into the East Pacific. This signals are poised to turn to La Nina.

Surface Water Temps
The more warm water in the equatorial East Pacific means more storm production in the North Pacific during winter months (roughly speaking). Cold water in that area has a dampening effect. Regardless of what the atmospheric models and surface winds suggest, actual water temperatures are a ground-truth indicator of what is occurring in the ocean. All data is from blended infrared and microwave sensors.
Satellite Imagery
Hi-res Nino1.2 & 3.4 Qualitative Analysis: (2/12) The latest images depict a moderate warm stream from Ecuador uniformly covering the area on the equator west to the dateline but steadily losing density. with many cooler pockets interspersed. Temps are fading more markedly in it's core directly on the equator from 110W to 140W. Heat also extends north up to Southern Baja and south down into North Chile. There is still a clear El Nino signal with the classic El Nino triangle in-place but it is steadily losing density and intensity.
Hi-res 7 day Trend (2/12): A warming trend was along the coast of Chile Peru and Ecuador. 2 strong pockets of warming were on the equator near the Galapagos and at 110W. Otherwise temps were neutral. A warming trend that has been well entrenched over the East Pacific since Nov 1 2022 is collapsing.
Hi-res Overview: (2/9) Warmer than normal waters are filling the Equatorial Pacific from Ecuador to the dateline. The classic El Nino tongue of warm water is still present but slowly losing it's density on the equator west to the dateline. Everything still looks like El Nino.
Nino1.2 Daily CDAS Index Temps: (2/13) (The official OISST temp record runs about +0.2 degrees higher). Today's temps are rising to +1.197 as the last of warm subsurface water gets squeezed upwards. Temps have been in the +1.0 range the past 7 days, up from +0.502 on 2/4 and had been toggling in the +0.6 degs range since 12/30, previously up into the +2.0 range in early Nov. .
Nino 3.4 Daily CDAS Index Temps:
(2/13) (OISST runs about +0.2 degrees higher). Today's temps were falling at +1.097 and had been +1.2 degs or higher since 1/3. Temps had been in the +1.5 range since 11/19-1/12. Weekly OISST are at +1.7 degs the week so f2/7, +1.8 degs the week of 1/31. +1.7 week of 1/24 and 1/17 up at +1.9 degs 1/10 and 1/3. and up at +2.0 (12/27, 12/20 and 12/13) after being at +1.9 (12/6), +2.0 degs (11/29) and +2.1 (week of 11/22 - the highest so far), then +1.9 the week before and +1.8 degs (previous 2 weeks). Monthly Data is +1.72 Oct, 2.02 Nov, 2.02 Dec and +1.87 for Jan. The 3 month ONI is +2.0 ft the 3 month period Nov-Dec-Jan or bare minimal Super El Nino status.

Click for Full Sized Image Click for Full Sized Image

CFSV2 Forecast for Nino3.4 Sea Surface Temp (SST) Anomalies & Current SST Anomalies

SST Anomaly Projections
CFSv2 Data (Nino3.4 Region)
Previous - Temps started slowly rising to -0.75 degs in Jan 2023 and up to -0.5 degs (above the La Nina threshold) on 2/12. Temps rose to +0.50 degs mid-May and were at +0.9 degs in mid-June, and +1.05 mid July reaching up to +1.30 degs early Aug, +1.6 degs in Sept holding in Oct and , +1.95 in Nov, +2.0 in Dec and +1.85 in Jan.
Forecast (2/12) - Temps are to fall to +1.5 degs in mid-Feb. Temps are to be falling to +1.0 mid-March and steadily falling from there down to -2.0 degs in Nov 2024. The PDF Corrected forecast effectively suggests the same thing but with temps falling to -1.5 degs in Nov and leveling off there. According to this version of the model we are past the peak of a strong El Nino.
IRI Consensus Plume: The January 20, 2024 Plume (all models) depicts temps are +1.53 degs today and it's the 9th month above the La Nina threshold. Temps to fall steadily from here forward down to +1.149 in Feb (that's a 3 months running mean) then fading from there down to -0.783 in Sept. The Dynamic model suggest temps falling to -0.827 in Sept and the Statistic down to -0.783.
See chart here - link.

Atmospheric Coupling (Indicating the presence of El Nino in the atmosphere driven by the ocean):
Southern Oscillation Index (SOI) (negative is good, positive bad - all but the Daily Index was a lagging indicator):
Today (2/12) the Daily Index was hard negative -37.51 today and peaked at -46.54 on 2/9 and has been hard negative the last 21 days. It was positive and up to +31.61 on 1/6 and had been rising the previous 10 days. It had been effectively neutral 11/20/23 through 1/10/24. This is not consistent with El Nino. Previously it was negative for 29 days (7/14-8/11) with a peak down to -37.30 on 7/25 and negative previously to 7/12 with peaks down to -29.32 on 5/31, -64.63 on 5/24 and -31.31 on 5/12.
The 30 day average was falling at -10.99, Recent max lows were -10.43 on 11/16 and -15.70 on 9/23.
The 90 day average was falling some at -5.33. Recent max lows were -11.14 on 11/17, -11.85 on 10/15.
El Nino is collapsing

Pacific Decadal Oscillation
The PDO theoretically turned from a 16 year negative run (Jan 98-Feb 2014) in early 2014 and was positive till Dec 2019, but has been negative ever since and the most negative in 2021-2023 since 2011, driven by a 3 year La Nina conditions. There's some sign of it rising in Nov/Dec 2023, but only slightly. In May-July 2021 it was the most negative its been in the -1.80 to -2.04 range since Sept 2012 (-2.99) and then fell to -3.16 in Oct 2021 (the lowest since July 1933) then settled at -2.72 in Nov and Dec 2021. Looking at the long term record, it seems likely we are still in the Cool Phase of the PDO (La Nina 'like') with no signs of moving to the positive/warm phase (El Nino 'like').

See imagery in the ENSO Powertool 


Powerlines Jeff Clark Inside Mavericks

Local Interest
Stormsurf Video Surf Forecast for this week. See it Here
For automatic notification of forecast updates, subscribe to the Stormsurf001 YouTube channel - just click the 'Subscribe' button below the video.

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NBC News - Climate Change and Surfing: https://www.nbcnews.com/mach/science/climate-change-good-surfing-other-sports-not-so-much-ncna1017131

Mavericks & Stormsurf on HBO Sports with Bryant Gumbel https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=luQSYf5sKjQ

Pieces Featuring Stormsurf:
http://www.bloomberg.com/video/how-to-predict-the-best-surfing-waves-EsNiR~0xR5yXGOlOq2MqfA.html
http://www.cbsnews.com/videos/surfs-up-for-mavericks-invitational-in-calif/

Time Zone Converter By popular demand we've built and easy to use time convert that transposes GMT time to whatever time zone you are located. It's ion left hand column on every page on the site near the link to the swell calculator.

Surf Height-Swell Height Correlation Table

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