Pacific Storm & Surf Forecast (Stormsurf)

Buoy 238 (Barbers Pt)/Buoy 239 (Lani): Seas were 2.7 ft @ 12.5 secs with swell 1.4 ft @ 12.9 secs from 191 degrees. Water temp 76.5 degs (Barbers Pt), 76.6 (Pearl Harbor 233), 77.0 (Lani 239).
Buoy 106 (Waimea): Out of Service Buoy 202 (Hanalei) Out of Service
Buoy 46025 (Catalina RDG): Seas were 3.8 ft @ 12.0 secs with swell 2.9 ft @ 12.0 secs from 259 degrees. Wind south at 4-6 kts. Water temperature 56.7 degs, 57.6 (Topanga 103), 56.1 degs (Long Beach 215), 57.2 (Oceanside Offshore 045), 56.7 (Del Mar 153), 58.1 (Torrey Pines Outer 100). At Harvest Buoy (071) primary swell was 7.6 ft @ 12.7 secs from 306 degrees. At E. Santa Barbara (46053) swell was 2.9 ft @ 11.6 secs from 280 degrees. At Santa Monica (028) swell was 3.0 ft @ 12.4 secs from 249 degrees. At Oceanside (045) swell was 1.9 ft @ 12.3 secs from 245 degrees. Southward at Pt Loma (191) swell was 3.4 ft @ 12.3 secs from 260 degrees. Water temperature was 57.9 degrees.
Buoy 46012 (Half Moon Bay) Out of Service /029 (Pt Reyes): Seas were 9.6 ft @ 7.1 secs with swell 8.0 ft @ 6.7 secs from 156 degrees. Wind southeast at 29-39 kts (46026). Water temp 50.4 (Bodega Bay 46013), 50.2 degs (Pt Reyes 029), 50.9 (San Francisco 46026), 51.4 (SF Bar 142), 53.4 (Pt Santa Cruz 254) and NA (Monterey Bay 46042).

PACIFIC OVERVIEW
Current Conditions
On Tuesday (3/14) North and Central CA had sets at head high to 1 ft overhead and totally whitecapped and trashed from strong south wind with waves moves perpendicular to the beach from the south. Protected breaks were flat and heavily textured from south wind. At Santa Cruz surf was chest high or so and warbled and chopped and not really rideable with solid south wind. In Southern California/Ventura waves were thigh to maybe waist high and somewhat lined up and mushed and warbled though local wind was calm. Central Orange County had sets at chest to shoulder high and clean and reasonably lined up with decent form but soft. South Orange County's best summertime breaks had sets occasionally chest high on the peak and clean with decent form but soft. North San Diego had sets at waist high and clean but closed out. Hawaii's North Shore had sets at waist high on the sets and clean and soft. The South Shore was thigh to waist high and warbled and not really rideable. The East Shore was getting northeast windswell at thigh high and clean with light southwest wind.

See QuikCASTs for the 5 day surf overview or read below for the detailed view.

Meteorological Overview
On Tuesday (3/14) Hawaii and California were getting no swell of interest. Beyond there's hints of a small gale developing in the Eastern Gulf falling southeast targeting CA on Mon-Tues (3/20) with seas to 22 ft aimed east. A second Atmospheric River event was in control over California with perhaps a third stronger one developing over the weekend being fed by a very strong Active Phase of the MJO pushing south of California.

SHORT- TERM FORECAST
Current marine weather and wave analysis plus forecast conditions for the next 72 hours

Overview
Jetstream
On Tuesday (3/14) the jetstream was split over inland China with most energy pushing east across the North Pacific on the 27N latitude line before lifting northeast and moving inland over North CA. The northern branch was pushing northeast inland over Russia and then through the North Bering Sea falling southeast over the Gulf of Alaska and inland over Oregon. A soupy mix of weather was occurring where those 2 streams were converging between North CA and Oregon. No troughs were occurring over the greater Pacific offering no support for gale development. Over the next 72 hours no real change is forecast other than a change in the position of the 2 jetstream branches impacting the US West coast, with the gap between them getting bigger and the northern branch moving over British Columbia and the southern branch pushing over Central and South CA. Beyond 72 hours more of the same is forecast over the greater North Pacific but with the 2 branches starting to converge north of Hawaii on Fri (3/17) and winds speeds in the consolidated jet building to 190 kts and taking aim east of there starting to impact Central CA on Sat (3/18) and North CA on Sun (3/19) with winds 150 kts. That pattern is to continue non-stop into Tues (3/21) making for another potential Atmospheric River Event there.

Surface Analysis
On Tuesday (3/14) no swell producing weather systems have occurred resulting in no swell in the water.

Tropical Update
No tropical systems of interest are being monitored at this time.

Wed AM (3/15) north winds are forecast at 15+ kts for North CA and 15 kts for Central CA early. In the afternoon high pressure builds with northwest winds forecast at 20 kts for all of North and Central CA. Rain for Morro Bay southward including all of Southern CA early fading in the late afternoon and evening. No snow forecast.
Thurs AM (3/16) northwest winds are forecast at 10 kts for North CA and 10-15 kts for Central CA early. In the afternoon northwest winds are forecast at 5-10 kts for North CA and 10 kts for Central CA. Low pressure is to start building off the coast. No precip forecast.
Fri AM (3/17) winds to be south 5 kts for North CA early and northwest 5 kts for Central CA. Weak low pressure moves onshore over Cape Mendocino in the afternoon with south winds 30 kts there and south 15-20 kts down to Pt Reyes with south winds 5 kts for Central CA. No precip forecast.
Sat AM (3/18) calm winds are forecast early for north CA and northwest 5 kts for Central CA. In the afternoon northwest winds are forecast at 5 kts for North CA and up to 10 kts for Central CA. Light rain for most of North CA before sunrise then fading early morning.
Sun AM (3/19) northwest winds are forecast at 5-10 kts for North and Central CA early. No change in the afternoon but low pressure is to start building out at seas.
Mon AM (3/20) low pressure start impacting California with south winds 25-30 kts for North CA and 15-20 kts for Central CA. In the afternoon wind to turn west at 15-25 kts for North CA with the low lifting north off the coast and 5-10 kts for Central CA. Rain developing for all of North and Central CA early down into Santa Barbara County starting to fade in the afternoon. Steady snow for the Sierra.
Tues AM (3/21) southwest winds to be 5 kts for North CA early and northwest 5-10 kts for Central CA. Light rain for North CA early. Snow for Tahoe northward.

Total snow accumulation for the next 10 days respectively for Squaw Valley, Sugar Bowl, Kirkwood and Mammoth are projected at 68, 67, 65, and 50 inches with steady accumulation through 3/14 then redeveloping 3/19-3/22.

Freezing level for Lake Tahoe rising to 8,300 ft early on 3/14 falling briefly to 2,000 ft in the evening then back to 6,400 ft steady on 3/15 through 3/19 before falling steadily to 4,000 ft by 3/22.

Tioga Pass/Pacific Crest Trail intersection forecast: Temps - Freeze Level
More locations here (scroll down to 'Resort Snow Forecasts>Central CA or North CA Caltrans & Backcountry')

Overview
Surface Analysis
No swell producing fetch has occurred with no swell in the water or radiating towards the coast.

LONG-TERM FORECAST
Marine weather and forecast conditions 3-10 days into the future

Beyond 72 hours perhaps a gale is to develop in the Eastern Gulf on Sun PM (3/19) producing 40 kt northwest winds over a tiny area with seas building. On Mon AM (3/20) the gale is to be falling southeast with 40 kt northwest winds and seas 22 ft at 43.5N 146W aimed east well off Oregon. In the evening the gale is to be falling southeast and losing definition with 30 kt northwest winds and seas 21 ft at 42.5N 141W off North CA. Fetch is to be rebuilding Tues AM (3/21) at 35 kts off North CA with seas 19 ft at 38N 141W aimed southeast at Central CA. Something to monitor.

Major Global Weather Pattern Change Occurring - El Nino Developing
Kelvin Wave #2 in Flight - Active MJO #3 Strong - Sea Surface Temps Rising Fast
1 Kelvin Wave traversed the Pacific in Dec '22 with Kelvin Wave #2 in-flight and Kevin Wave #3 developing now. And Westerly Winds are fully established filling the KWGA and forecast filling the Pacific over the next month. And Sea Surface Temperatures are warming to neutral. The last link in the chain is to see the SOI falling (which it is showing preliminary signs of doing). The outlook is turning optimistic.

MJO/ENSO Discussion
The Madden Julian Oscillation (MJO) is a periodic weather cycle that tracks east along the equator circumnavigating the globe. It is characterized in it's Inactive Phase by enhanced trade winds and dry weather over the part of the equator it is in control of, and in it's Active Phase by slackening if not an outright reversing trade winds while enhancing precipitation. The oscillation occurs in roughly 20-30 day cycles (Inactive for 20-30 days, then Active for 20-30 days) over any single location on the planet, though most noticeable in the Pacific. During the Active Phase in the Pacific the MJO tends to support the formation of stronger and longer lasting gales resulting in enhanced potential for the formation of swell producing storms. Prolonged and consecutive Active MJO Phases in the Pacific help support the formation of El Nino. During the Inactive Phase the jet stream tends to split resulting in high pressure and less potential for swell producing storm development. Wind anomalies in the Kelvin Wave Generation Area (KWGA) are key for understanding what Phase the MJO is in over the Pacific. The KWGA is located on the equator from 135E-170W and 5 degs north and south (or on the equator from New Guinea east to the dateline). West wind anomalies in the KWGA suggest the Active Phase of the MJO in the Pacific, and east anomalies suggests the Inactive Phase. In turn the Active Phase strengthens and the Inactive Phase weakens the jetstream, which in turn enhances or dampens storm production respectively in the Pacific.And the El Nino/La Nino cycle (collectively know as ENSO - El Nino Southern Oscillation) is a less frequent (about once every 7 years) but more impactful cycle that affects world wide weather. Specifically, strong El Nino events promote storm production in the Pacific while La Nina events suppress storm production. These therefore have a significant impact on the production of swell and surf. The paragraphs below analyze the state of the MJO and ENSO in the Pacific and provide forecasts for upcoming activity (or inactivity depending on the state and interaction of these two oscillations).

Overview: In 2019 warm equatorial waters were fading, and by August a tongue of cool water was tracking west on the equator from Ecuador over the Galapagos reaching to a point nearly south of Hawaii. A bit of a recovery tried to occur during Fall of 2019, with weak warm water building in the Nino 1.2 region, but cool water held in a pool off Peru. By April 2020 a cool pool was starting to build, forming a well defined cool tongue that evolved into La Nina, with it fully developing through July 2020. A slow dissolving of La Nina started in March 2021 with 2 Kelvin Waves sweeping east and arriving over the Galapagos in June. Weak warming set up over the equator with no cool waters present. NOAA declared La Nina dead. But cold water returned in July 2021 and a second pulse of La Nina developed through the Winter of 2022 and is continuing today, though possibly weaker with its foundation appearing to be in decline.

Rationale: It was assumed that the moderate La Nina from the Winter of 2020/2021 was on the wane and that a return to neutral ENSO state would set up over the Pacific Basin through the summer of 2021. But La Nina made a strong return by the end of Sept much like what the CFS model suggested would happen and a full double dip pattern took hold through the Winter of 21/22. But a quick fade is forecast as we move into late December 2022 with the CFS predicting a return to a neutral wind anomaly pattern and the low pressure bias making headway in to the KWGA in early Jan. Still it will take some time for the atmosphere to fully respond, resulting in a less than normal swell production forecast especially for Fall into early Winter 2022. But by later in Jan or early Feb 2023 a return to a more normal pattern might take hold. As a result a significantly reduced number of storm days and storm intensity is expected Oct 22-Jan 23, resulting in a below normal level of swells, with swell being below normal duration and period. But by Feb 2023, the number of storm days, intensity and duration of those storms should start improving as La Nina fades out. The net result is we're currently thinking a near normal number of swells with normal size and duration is to result, but all focused sometime after Jan 2023. The swell pattern will be below normal before Jan and above normal after Jan 23 with the average of the two being 'normal'. Of course this is all highly speculative at this early date.

KWGA/Equatorial Surface Wind Analysis (KWGA - Kelvin Wave Generation Area - The area 5 degrees north and south of the equator from 170W to 135E)
Analysis (TAO Buoys): As of (3/13) 5 day average winds were moderate from the east over the East equatorial Pacific and strong east over the Central Pacific and moderate east over the KWGA. Anomalies were moderate west over the East equatorial Pacific and neutral over the Central Pacific and neutral over the KWGA. (Note: These are 5 day average winds, versus realtime, so they lag what is happening today (by about 2.5 days).
1 Week Forecast (GFS Model): (3/14) Modest east anomalies filled the KWGA today. The 7 day forecast has weak to modest east anomalies holding over the KWGA through the end of the model run on 3/21. Strong west anomalies were today south of California and are to slow fade to neutral by 3/18.

MJO/WWB/Wind Projections:
OLR Models: (3/13) A moderate Active MJO signal was indicated over the KWGA today. The statistical model indicates the Active MJO signal easing east of the KWGA by day 5 of the model run with a strong Inactive Phase taking over and in control through day 15 of the model run. The dynamic model indicates the same thing but with the Inactive Phase dissolving on day 10 and gone by day 15.
Phase Diagrams 2 week forecast (CA and GEFS): (3/7) The statistical model depicts the Active signal was strong over the Atlantic and is to move east to the Indian Ocean 15 days out and moderate. The dynamic model indicates the same thing but the Active Phase fading to weak status 15 days out.
40 day Upper Level Model (assumed to be a statistical mode and 1 week ahead of what is occurring at the surface): (3/14) A moderate Inactive signal (dry air) was filling the East equatorial Pacific today. The forecast has the Inactive signal (dry air) traversing the KWGA through 3/24 then into to Ecuador on 4/3. A moderate Active Phase of the MJO (wet air) is to start moving over the KWGA 4/3 and filling the bulk of the Pacific at the end of the model run on 4/23.
4 Week CFS Model (850 mb wind): (3/13) The Inactive Phase of the MJO was developing over the KWGA today with modest east anomalies filling the KWGA. A solid Active Phase of the MJO was over the far East Equatorial Pacific. The forecast indicates the Inactive Phase of the MJO is to traverse the KWGA through 3/25 with modest to moderate east anomalies filling the KWGA. The Active Phase of the MJO and it's west anomalies to fade over the far East Equatorial Pacific through 3/22. After that weak east anomalies are to hold over the dateline through the end of the model run on 4/10.
3 Month CFS Model (850 mb wind): (3/9) - using the 5th ensemble member - the mean of the 4 individual members which are all from the 00Z run - 1 run per day):
Today the Active Phase of the MJO was fading over the dateline while tracking east. East anomalies at modest strength were already developing over the entirety of the KWGA. The forecast indicates the Active Phase of the MJO is to track east and out of the KWGA by 3/18 with the Inactive Phase of the MJO moving fully over the KWGA starting 3/16 and holding to 4/7 with east anomalies at modest strength holding through 3/22 then fading to neutral even while the Inactive Phase holds. If anything west anomalies to redevelop by 3/22 and building steadily from there. By 4/15 solid west anomalies re to be in control over the KWGA and most of the Pacific and if anything building to strong status 4/23 and building steadily from there through the end of the model run on 6/11. Sure looks like a major El Nino is developing. The shift to El Nino started on 2/15. The low pass filter indicates a high pressure bias with 1 contour line centered at 150W with its western perimeter at 175E today and moving east fast and east of the KWGA by 3/30. A broad double contour low pressure bias is established centered over the West Maritime Continent at 120E with it's leading edge creeping east to 150E today (it started pushing east on 2/15). A hard push east is forecast from today moving forward and on the dateline 4/23 filling the KWGA and then filling the most of the Pacific at the end of the model run centered at 170E. This is all a big deal and is being repeated in some form consistently from one run of the model to the next since Oct 2022. It appears that the high pressure lockdown of the KWGA is in total collapse and over with no return in sight. Finally!

Subsurface Waters Temps
TAO Array: (3/14) Today in the far West Pacific the 29 degree isotherm was present at 160E. The 28 deg isotherm line was easing east from 170E but was now at 178E. The 26 degree isotherm has now pushed the whole way across the Pacific and building in the east to 27 degs. This is a big deal and the first time this has happened in years. The 24 deg isotherm was pushing east into Ecuador and building in thickness. Anomaly wise, warm anomalies at +4 deg C were in a broad pocket with the leading edge at 150W and recharging no longer connected to warm water from a previous Kelvin Wave #1 off Ecuador. A pocket of negative anomalies at -3 deg C were at 138W down 125m. The hi-res GODAS animation posted 3/9 indicates a huge very warm ball of 5+ degs anomalies stretching from the far West Pacific and reaching east upwards to 90W - Kelvin Wave #2 in flight. No cool water remained. The cool upwelling event that has been in play since July is gone. El Nino is developing. The GODAS animation appears to be 1 week behind the TAO data but also is more detailed and accurately modeled.
Sea Level Anomalies: (3/9) Sea heights were very positive from the far West equatorial Pacific to 160W and +0-5 cms over the remainder of the Equatorial Pacific reaching east to Ecuador with pockets of +5 cms anomalies between Ecuador and 130W. This means no cool water was at depth. Per the Upper Ocean Heat Anomaly Histogram cool anomalies are gone or limited to a tiny area east of 85W. Warm water continues building in intensity and coverage in the West to 150W at +2.25 degs and at the same time filling the East Equatorial Pacific.

Surface Water Temps
The more warm water in the equatorial East Pacific means more storm production in the North Pacific during winter months (roughly speaking). Cold water in that area has a dampening effect. Regardless of what the atmospheric models and surface winds suggest, actual water temperatures are a ground-truth indicator of what is occurring in the ocean. All data is from blended infrared and microwave sensors.
Satellite Imagery
Hi-res Nino1.2 & 3.4 Qualitative Analysis: (3/13) The latest images depict building warm water extending west along the equator from Ecuador to 140W (results of Kelvin Wave #1) and building in intensity. And warmer than normal temps were present along the coasts of Chile and Peru and over the entirety of the deep South Pacific. A tiny patch of barely cool water was collapsing on the equator extending west from 150W, the last remnants of La Nina. .
Hi-res 7 day Trend (3/13): A massive and building pool of warming water was locked well off the coasts of Peru and Chile and far stronger from Ecuador west over the equatorial Pacific to the dateline reaching north to 30N and south to 30S. This pool remains at impressive status today. A warming trend is well entrenched over the East Pacific since Nov 1 with no cooling waters over the equatorial East Pacific since 12/15.
Hi-res Overview: (3/13) Warming waters are filling the East Pacific off Chile, Peru and Ecuador. Cool waters were on the equator from about 150W to 160E and collapsing rapidly and almost indiscernible. There no legitimate sign of La Nina on the oceans surface anymore. The east equatorial Pacific is finally and steadily warming.
Nino1.2 Daily CDAS Index Temps: (3/14) (These temps are biased high by about 0.2 degs compared to official sources). Today's temps were steady at +0.462 (since 2/28) but had reached as high as +1.076 on 2/19 and were previously steady at +0.848 since 2/7. Previously they started steadily rising 11/13 when they were around -1.5 degs C.
Nino 3.4 Daily CDAS Index Temps: (3/14) (These temps are biased high by about 0.2 degs). Temps were rising to -0.051 today. Temps had previously risen to -0.402 on 2/23. Temps rose above the La Nina threshold (-0.5 degs) on 2/22 and had been rising slowly since 2/12 when they were about -1.0 degs C. Then had been in the -1.0 deg range since at least Nov 2022.

CFSV2 Forecast for Nino3.4 Sea Surface Temp (SST) Anomalies & Current SST Anomalies

SST Anomaly Projections
CFSv2 Data
Previous - Temps rose in early Nov 2020 after bottoming out at -1.25 degs, up to -0.01 degs in mid-June 2021 then fading to -1.05 degs in mid-Nov then rebuilding to -0.7 in mid Feb 2022 then fading to -1.1 degs in May before starting an upward climb peaking in mid-June at -0.65 degs and mid July at -0.55 degs. A steady decline set in after that falling to -1.00 degs in Aug and Sept rising to -0.8 degs mid Oct then falling to -1.0 in Nov but then slowly rising to -0.75 degs in Jan 2023 and up to -0.5 degs above the La Nina threshold on 2/12.
Forecast (3/14) - Temps are to move to neutral (0.0 degs) any day now and up to +0.85 degs in July and +1.45 degs in Oct and solidly into El Nino territory. The PDF Corrected forecast suggests temps are to hit neutral (0.0 degs) any day now and rising to +0.70 degs in July and +1.20 degs in Oct. According to this version of the model we are building into ENSO neutral in Spring and into El Nino in Summer.
IRI Consensus Plume: The Feb 19, 2023 Plume depicts temps are -0.228 degs today and above the La nina threshold. Temps to rise steadily from here forward to -0.018 degs in March rising to +0.758 in July and +0.759 in Sept. This is consistent with the previous run. This model suggests a transition to ENSO neutral if not weak El Nino. This model is in line with the CFS model.
See chart here - link.

Atmospheric Coupling (Indicating the presence of El Nino in the atmosphere driven by the ocean):
Southern Oscillation Index (SOI) (negative is good, positive bad - all but the Daily Index was a lagging indicator):
Today (3/14) the Daily Index was falling at +6.89 and has been negative the last 4 days. It fell to -17.44 on 2/22, the beginning of a change from which no return seems likely. It was up to +21.85 on 2/10 and +55.74 on 12/22 and were in the +20 range the previous 22 days.
The 30 day average was falling to +3.57 (lagging indicator driven by the Inactive Phase of the MJO) after falling to +4.18 on 11/27 and peaking at +21.57 (10/16) after supposedly peaking at +19.66 on 9/28. It was down to +6.89 on 7/29. It peaked at +20.34 (5/12) the highest in a year and beating last years high of +19.51 (1/14).
The 90 day average was falling at +12.26 after peaking at +14.63 on 2/20, +15.61 on 10/25 and +12.92 on 8/11 and that after peaking at +18.40 (7/2) beating it's previous peak of +16.86 (5/31), the highest in a year. It previously peaked at +9.80 (9/21) after falling to it's lowest point in a year at +1.06 (6/9). The 90 day average peaked at +15.75 (2/23/21 - clearly indicative of La Nina then). This index is a lagging indicator but suggests that the Active Phase occurring now is starting to drive the index down, hopefully with no upward trend in sight for at least a year.

Pacific Decadal Oscillation
The PDO theoretically turned from a 16 year negative run (Jan 98-Feb 2014) in early 2014 and was positive till Dec 2019, but has been negative ever since, driven by recent La Nina conditions. In May-July 2021 it was the most negative its been in the -1.80 to -2.04 range since Sept 2012 (-2.99) and then fell to -3.16 in Oct 2021 (the lowest since July 1933) then settled at -2.72 in Nov and Dec 2021. Looking at the long term record, it seems likely we are still in the Cool Phase of the PDO (La Nina 'like') with no signs of moving to the positive/warm phase (El Nino 'like').

Local Interest
Stormsurf Video Surf Forecast for this week. See it Here
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